Sunday, 29 August 2021

EVEN M O R E.... Things I needed to know about Outboards, but didn't know I needed to know!!

 I wasn't at all sure how I was supposed to start the engine from the control console. I guessed I needed to buy an electrical ignition device, as nothing had arrived with the motor. However, I had ordered a throttle lever that 'fitted all Mercury outboards', and when it arrived I saw that it had an ignition key and electrical cables as part of the assembly.,


When I tried to work out how the electrical ignition cables fitted into the engine I was at a loss, and decided to call my outboard supplier. The conversation went something like this:

"That remote control I bought from you won't fit."

"I know, it's the wrong type, why did you buy it?"

"Because it said it fits all Mercury-"

"No, why did you buy it and not use the one that came with the motor?"

"There wasn't one with the motor!"

"Are you sure?" 

"Well I wouldn't have bought another ..."

"True, you'll get it tomorrow."

And I did.


The large cable running from the right in the picture, was run under the starboard gunwale and the 14 pin harness at its end, emerged through the hole in the aft deck. 




I then removed the top and starboard cowl from the motor to give me access to the engine itself. I pulled  the cable up through the hole in the deck and after a struggle, turned it through ninety degrees and attached it to the turquoise 'female' harness 14 point 




The front control console ignition was now connected to the engine. In theory the engine fires when I turn the ignition key - using electricity from the new starter battery.




Sunday, 22 August 2021

M O R E.... Things I needed to know about Outboards, but didn't know I needed to know!!

Many years ago, I took the family to Cornwall and we hired 'Old Stan's Cottage' on the quay of the Cothele Estate, on the River Tamar. We had a little dinghy that came with the cottage and it had a tiny outboard motor which had a little petrol tank on top of it. I assumed all outboards were the same, and I was wrong.


It was hard not to notice that a big red petrol tank came with the motor... it was portable!



The problem was compounded when I couldn't find any sort of inlet for petrol to get into the engine. I read the manual and found only one reference, under the start-up sequence: 'Ensure fuel pipe snaps onto engine fuel inlet'. After looking at every photograph in the book I found one from which I could vaguely see the approximate area the fuel pipe met the engine.

 I looked at the end of the fuel pipe and the valve for connecting it to the engine. It made no sense for at the end of the pipe valve was a brass plate and a 'snap hook' thingy. 




Looking at the engine in the area I thought might be the right place I found a rubber bung sort of thing, which I pulled off to expose what looked an electrical connection!



I pushed my petrol pipe onto the 'electrical' connection and......'Snap' .... it was in place. 



Happy smiling moment, I had learnt something. However, the next thing that had bothered me was how we would get electricity to the engine. This was self-resolving as coming out of the motor were two heavy duty battery wires. Battery wires black and fuel light grey (below)


My next job was to connect the new starter battery to the engine via the battery cables. I began by drilling a large hole in the upper aft deck and feeding both the battery cables and petrol pump through them.

    Next I drilled holes through the aft bulkhead of  the port locker and feeding the battery wires through the hole



I then unboxed the new battery and placed it in the port. aft, locker.




It seems that the motor will charge the battery much in the same way that car charges its battery. Which solved another problem for me. 


 It only remained to put two stainless steel bolts through the engine fixing bracket and the transom.


 

Things I needed to know about Outboards, but didn't know I needed to know!!

 I knew the motor would hang off the transom and that it would need to be connected to controls in the wheel house, as effectively the engine also acted as a rudder. That sort of thing is obvious but where and how to start?

You may recall (see March 2020) that I wasn't sure if the steering cable would be long enough to fit into the engine (see fig 1)


(fig 1)

When I hung the motor from the transom I could see the cable was between 6 and 8 inches too short. No good having recriminations, so I shopped around for a new cable; no luck, all too short or far too long. There was nothing for it other than to buy a total system.

I removed the old helm mechanism and cable with a bit of difficulty, but nothing like the difficulty I encountered when fitting the new one. I'll not bore you with the details as helm installation was covered earlier... this was much the same but with swearing, blood, tears.

The new cable was just right, you can see it emerging in the bottom right hand corner of the picture with a silver nut and long bar leading into the engine



The long silver bar has to pass through a steel tube on the engine. Before we tried that we have to cover the silver bar in a thick coating of a special grease.







The bar was pushed as far as it would go into the engine 'tube', and the large silver nut (bottom left) screwed onto the threaded end of the tube



At the other end of the steering rod, a rubber nut was passed and screwed tight to the end of the engine tube.
 
   


 If I now turned the helm (steering wheel) it caused the rod, at the end of the steering cable, to slide up and down in the steel tube. All that was left to do was connect the engine to the steering rod to the engine itself. For this we needed a connecting rod.


One end of the connecting rod was bolted to the engine steering bracket and the other end bolted to the steering rod via a hole in the rod. All was tightened ready for testing.



I turned the helm from side to side and the engine moved accordingly, hence the engine acted as a rudder.








Saturday, 7 August 2021

Installing the Outboard Motor

 Putting the engine into the boat was always going to be a problem: it was so heavy that I couldn't budge it an inch.

It's the sort of thing that is commonplace to a lot of you,, but to me it was Mount Everest
It's the sort of challenge I relish, for I needed to raise the engine vertically three foot, and backwards another six foot. Then I had to reposition the engine eight foot to the right, swing it into the vertical position and drop it with pinpoint accuracy into the slot I had carved in the transom (back).
All I had were a tiny pairs of pulley-system (£12 each) and a couple of mooring lines. It took three hours of coordinating small movements.
Well it's done!!!

The slot I had to cut was because the transom and transom beam were too wide for the motor. I have a photo of the slot but it has become corrupted.