Monday, 15 January 2018

Turning The Boat - Stage 2

The weather got warmer for a short while, so I took the opportunity to get the third, and final, coat of red anti-fouling paint done.

I then needed to dismantle all but three of the moulds (molds) in preparation for turning Seagull.

To remind you how the moulds are constructed:

1. The mould is cut from particle board, then sawn in half down its centre line (for easy extraction!) and then rejoined by screwing to three pieces of 2" x 1":



2.  The Moulds are screwed to vertical uprights, and braced by diagonal struts.

3. The vertical uprights are fixed to the building-jig by two bolts


TIP: Cover the bolts and nuts in masking tape to protect them from glue: they take 30 seconds to undo ... but ... if glue falls on them and sets (as it did on many of mine) it can take 15 - 30 minutes to get each bolt unfastened.

DISMANTLING  THE MOULDS (MOLDS).

The idea is to leave three moulds in place: one forward, one aft and one midships - to support the boat whilst rigging her for turning. To remove the other 10 see below:

a. Undo and remove the bolts at 3 (above).
b. Unscrew and remove diagonal bracing struts at 2 (above).
c. Unscrew and remove the three 2" x 1" pieces holding the two          halves together at 1 (above).
d. Unscrew and remove the vertical supports at 2 (above). Pull out      and store the verticals 
e. The two halves of the moulds will need to be pulled to & fro            until they come free.


Seeing inside the boat without moulds, is like seeing the boat for the first time. In the picture below, the pieces of tape are where the moulds were. The tape stops the moulds getting glued to the boat, which is something I worried about. 

Inside The Boat


So far the tape has worked, but there is still that moment of anxiety when you first try to pull the moulds free ... they really don't want to be pulled out of the comfort of Seagull and into the cruel world, and then dumped in a pile.


I have been watching videos of boats being turned - 12 strong men is favourite, with elaborate lifting gear coming a close second. All I have is me and a hot mug of steaming Assam tea! Can't wait to see what I do.... but 'do it' I will :)

Tuesday, 9 January 2018

Turning The Boat - Stage 1. (Does my Bottom Look Big in This?)

Reasons for loooooong delay in posting: 3 months away in Australia, Christmas, and daughter's Wedding!

I've got to the point when I need to turn the boat 'right-way-up'.  However, there remains the outstanding task of applying the final (third) coat of the red anti-fouling. With temperatures hovering around freezing I'm putting off painting as it's outside the temperature range of limits for the paint's application.

There remains many stages to turning Seagull over, not least a cradle for it to sit in. As she has a rounded bottom! Without the cradle she will roll about as I work inside, and the paint will get scratched.

I used the two off-cuts from the moulds (molds) '9' and '4' for the 


The moulds (molds)

ends of the cradle.


CRADLE ENDS from off-cuts from Moulds 4 & 9  (9 is nearest)
Next, strips of carpet were cut and nailed to the edges of the cradle 
ends, to stop the cradle scratching the paintwork. I used felting 


Carpet nailed to edges of cradle.
nails as they have large flat heads which wouldn't pull through the carpet. (TIP: Convince wife that carpet in utility room is dangerous).

To keep the ends in place, as sides I used old tongue and grooved planks I had left over from building my workshop. These needed bracing to keep cradle rigid.



That is the first stage completed, but doesn't answer the question of how I will turn the boat over on my own ... I'm interested to know how I'm going to do it, remembering the small space I have.

Friday, 25 August 2017

Patriotic? Red, White and Blue

Got some finishing coats of paint on her.

The Red is Epivanes Foul-away 750ml (1.3 pints).  It took the whole tin (can) to paint this area, it's very thick and they recommend that you don't use thinners with it.

The Blue is Epivanes Monourethane (3129)  750ml. It took a quarter of one tin (can) to paint both sides - spreads nicely.


Before applying the paint I thoroughly cleaned the hull with Tack (Tak) rags, and then degreased the hull with a little thinners. Next the floor was washed to get rid of the dust.

Here's the paint specs:

Epifanes Mono-urethane (one-component)
A hard, one-component, air-drying, high gloss finish paint based on urethanealkyd resins. Provides superior covering and filling, long lasting weather durability and high gloss retention. For use on wood, steel, aluminium and fibreglass, for interior and exterior applications above the waterline in combination with the appropriate primers or directly on well degreased and sanded fibreglass. Also for use as a maintenance coat on intact well degreased and sanded one- and two-component paint systems. Do not apply directly on epoxy systems. Suitable for fresh and salt water. Thinner: Brush application - Epifanes Brushtinner for Paint & Varnish Spray application - Epifanes Spraythinner for Paint and Varnish Recoatable: After 24 hours at 18°C. (65°F.) Coverage: One litre is sufficient for 15 sq. metres ( 160 sq. feet) Package: 750 ml. Colours: 17 colours according to Epifanes colour card

Epifanes Foul-Away (selfpolishing  underwaterpaint) 
A copper, tin and boicide-free selfpolishing underwaterpaint. Due to the selfpolishing characteristics of this paint, the bottom will remain smooth, clean and will prevent unnecessary build-up of paint coats. This bottom paint can be applied over well degreased and roughly sanded existing hard antifouling, selfpolishing antifouling or vinyl based antifouling. Suited for use on wood, fibreglass steel, aluminium and for application on a not fully cured epoxy resin (surface still shows sticky) or on Epifanes Interimcoat. Application of three coats (225 microns dry filmthickness) is advised for long-term effectiveness. Allow 18 hours to cure before launching. Thinner: Preferably unthinned. Do not thin. If necessary thin with Epifanes Thinner D-100. Recoatable: After 6 hours at 18°C (65°F.) Coverage: 750ml. is sufficient for 8m2 Package: 750ml. Colours: white, black, blue, red, redbrown and green

Wednesday, 23 August 2017

Under waterline Priming


I've now put a coat of epoxy primer on the below the waterline area. I found that a mixed can of paint  + reactor  = 750 ml. which was barely enough to cover the underwater area.

The White Area is the Under Water Primer


Here is what it says in the Epifanes manual:

Epifanes Epoxy Primer (two-component) An anti-corrosive primer based on an epoxy resin and zinc phosphate as the anti-rust agent. High build, high filling capacity and easy sanding. For use as a filling primer in a two-component poly-urethane paint 51 

PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONS system on (ply-)wood and fibreglass and as an anti-rust primer in a two-component poly-urethane paint system on steel and aluminium.
For interior and exterior use above and below the waterline.

20 minutes before use, pour component B (reactor) in component A (base) and stir well. The mixing ratio is 100 parts comp. A to 14 parts comp. B by weight (100 part comp. A to 25 part comp B. by volume). The correct mixing ratio quantity is already in the cans.

 Potlife after mixing is 8 hours max. Thinner: All applications - Epifanes Thinner D-601 

Recoatable: After 12 hours at 18°C. (65°F.). Within 5 days without sanding Coverage: one liter is sufficient for 12 sq meters Package: 750 ml. - 2000 ml. - 4000 ml. Colour: white

Wednesday, 16 August 2017

Cutting in the Waterline.

My build-plans make no reference to the waterline, the only mention is the draught (draft) which is 8 inches or 200 mm. Yet I need to know exactly where the waterline is, as the underwater section is red, and blue above. I can't guess where it lies because the odds are that I'd get it wrong and end up with the paint-finish looking 'skew-wiff'!!

On Youtube I watched them carry a boat out and put it in the water, then go around with a marker and mark in the waterline. No way I can do that.

I then watched how the professionals did it and larger vessels. They used very expensive laser equipment, which I can't afford...
                                                          .... or can I?
I got one from Screwfix it was made by Bosch and cost £50 ($65).

From the centre of the bottom of the transom I measured down 8 inches and marked a point. Next a spirit level was used to draw a horizontal line across the transom: the only flat surface on the boat, the rest is complex curves.

Horizontal Pencil Line on Transom

The laser leveller was now set up.


The machine self-levels and in normal conditions - setting it up 5 - 10 yards (metres) away - would project the horizontal line the whole length of the boat. As it is, I only have one yard each side which, as you can see above, gives me a short line.

The machine was moved along until the end of the laser touched the pencil mark on the transom. Marks were made with a 'felt-tip' marker at short intervals along the horizontal laser line. The machine was moved further along numerous times until I reached the stem.
The marks left with the felt-tip marker just visible 

I then repeated the process on the other side, starting at the transom. My check would come if I ended up at the stem exactly in line with the previous line. They met within a 'gnat's whisker'.

Starting aft, I place a continuous strip of masking-tape along all the felt-tip marks.


   
I'd got myself a waterline! It is not where I would have guessed it would end up

Friday, 11 August 2017

Primer

Today I put on one coat of Epifanes Multi Marine Primer which took exactly 750 ml (1.3 pints).



This is reputed to be a good filler as well as a grounding for further coats of paint. I shall give it a good sanding down and re-coat in a few days.



Thursday, 1 June 2017

Fixing Them Holes

A few posts ago you can see how the fibreglass blanket I epoxied over the hull had developed quite a few bubbles in it. The temptation is to ignore the bubbles and paint over them. The problem then is that those bubbles are brittle and will shatter if banged, and this will then lead to a major problem of repairing not only the hole in the fibreglass but the ruined paintwork.

Working in small areas, I have been bursting the bubbles and removing the chards, which leaves a hole through to the wooden planking:



I then filled the holes with a mix of epoxy resin and filler powder.


I will sand these filled holes down tomorrow.
You will have noticed how the lovely polished varnish effect has gone for I have sanded the hull all over.


This process of coating and then sanding will go on for weeks until we reach the final finish!