Sunday, 4 November 2018

Quarter Knees, Inwales and Floors

I have now cut and fitted the quarter knees, which strengthen the transom to sides. 

Here is the port quarter knee (triangular piece)

Then I fixed the after most floor with Epoxy Resin with added Fillet Fibres, which were piped though a forcing-bag, as used in icing (topping) cakes.

Aft floor glued to planks by epoxy resin fillets

Last week, I fitted one layer of the starboard inwale to the top  strake of planking (see last posting). Today, I added the second starboard layer by laminating it (gluing it) to the first layer: It would have been difficult to bend one thick inwale and so it is made from two pieces.

The two laminated layers of the laminated inwale, looking Forward, clamped to the outer planking

View of  Starboard Inwale Looking Aft

As in the first layer, I had to scarf-joint the second layer: it wasn't long enough and I had to add a smaller length joined to the longer piece.

Scarf Joint - the length of the joint is calculated by multiplying the thickness by 8. The joint above is 4 inches long as it is 0.5 inch thick 

Tuesday, 23 October 2018

Floors and Transom Knee

The floors are the beams upon which the deck boards lie.  They are made from Utile, an African hardwood.

I cut the floors out quite early in the build whilst I could still get the shape from the moulds (molds). In the picture below the floors are the dark pieces of wood clamped to the bottom of the moulds.

Yesterday I offered-up the floors and began finishing them off to give a snug fit to the rounded hull.

Today I cut out the Transom Knee: the triangular bracket that ties the transom to the hog

The plans call for a knee that is either cut from a solid piece of timber, or laminated Marine Ply. Accordingly I cut out 5 pieces of ply, getting their shape by using a cardboard template: the angle between the transom and hog is greater than 90 deg. 

These five pieces will be glued together to form a laminated knee, two inches thick.

Sunday, 21 October 2018

Inwalls and Transom Outboard Motor Support Beam

I've had a little time today, to get on with the build. I've cut and fitted a large piece of Utile to the transom. This is basically a support for the outboard motor. I've glued and clamped it in place.

For those unfamiliar with Utile, it is an African hardwood closely related to Sapelle and African mahogany 

I then continued work on the the inwalls. They are of Douglas Fir (2" x 0.5"). The pieces I have aren't long enough to be fitted as one continuous length so I have to add a short piece and join it to the longer piece.

and so I have scarf-joint them.

Scarf Joint (Length = Thickness x  8)
The overall effect is:

Wednesday, 19 September 2018

The natural attraction to working in wood

One of the reasons I wanted to build a wooden boat was because I love woodworking. Little did I know that with this method of building I would spend as much time finishing the wood with epoxy resin, paint and hours of sanding. As a shipwright I passed the boat over to the 'finishers' to ...'er, finish!

So when it came time to sand all the inside of the boat again, for weeks, my heart sank. Then it dawned on me that I could mix carpentry and sanding ... do them in parallel.

I thought I would start with the Inwales: which are strips that run inside the top plank (inside the gunwales). Before I could do that, I needed to clean up the mess the fibre glass blanket makes when it laps over the top plank - see picture below.

Rather than rip lots of sanding-disks to pieces on the glass, I decided to take my Japanese rasp 'thing' and file off the lumps of glass.

This was very successful and I got all around the gunwale in just over an hour. I then cramped on the inwale, or rather the first part of the inwale as it has to be made from two pieces of Douglas Fir, which I will have to laminate in place.

You can see, in the picture above, the piece of Douglas Fir clamped on at the top edge isn't quite long enough to reach the bow so I will need do add a smaller piece using a scarf-joint - which we will deal with when I get to that stage. 

The Douglas Fir is 2 x 0.5 inch (45 x 11 mm) - the reason for using this type of timber is it is straight grained, knot free and strong.

Sunday, 16 September 2018

The last piece of fibre glass blanket has been put in place and epoxy resined onto the inside of the transom

The next step is to sandpaper all of the inside of the hull (excuse sideways photo below).

You may recall the monster job sandpapering the outside was, so I have invested in a top of the range sanding system from Mirka. The sander is high performance and very quiet, it is also dust free as it is attached to its own extraction system (Vacuum). 

The extraction systems takes its power from the domestic supply and the sander is plugged directly into extraction unit. The switch (picture below) on the unit is set to Auto, so that each time the sander is used it switches on/off the extraction unit.

My only reservation is whether or not the sanding disks will be strong enough to withstand the harshness of the fibre glass. We will see.

Monday, 10 September 2018

Just as you thought I deserted the project

My wife is disabled at the moment and is awaiting surgery in a month's time, that should solve her problem. Taking care of her  has kept me from boat-building. 

Now, with a bit of time management, I am able to get two or three hours a week on the boat which has changed the way I'm fibre glassing. 

It takes hours to epoxy resin longitudinally, time I don't have, and so I am doing it transversely so that I can get one piece done per session. As the boat is over 15 feet long there are 6 pieces to fit on each side - 12 total.

Below is a picture of the latest; it's piece 9 and I have 3 more pieces to go. As you can see this is a more tricky (they're all tricky) piece than most: it has to fit into the stem and traverse a multi-angled shape.

Fibreglass Blanket hung in place prior to Epoxy Resin application

After mixing up a few small batches of epoxy resin you can see from the picture below, the fibre glass becomes transparent. As the resin goes 'off' in 20 - 30 minutes, I mix small batches at a time.

Same area after Epoxy Resin has been applied.

Monday, 2 July 2018

Fibre Glass

After a number of family crisis, I was able to get back to the boat today.

The problem of which way to lay the fibre glass was my first task to solve. As you can imagine a flat cloth onto a curved surface will always result in lots of folds and creases.

I can either lay it transversely or longitudinally:

Fibreglass cloth laid transversely 
Fibreglass cloth laid transversely
Notice I hold the cloth in place with cloths pegs (clothepins)

I opted for length wise, cutting the cloth in half and applied epoxy 
resin on the front half. Notice the cloth becomes transparent.